Step

Note whether bracket strip has a top and bottom. Mark and drill for the top hole only.

Insert a bolt, but don't tighten it until you've plumbed the strip. Drill lower holes and install bolts.

Draw a level line from the strip's top or bottom to locate the position of the last strip.

Bracket shelving appears to put a lot of weight on the few small fasteners that secure the strips. But those fasteners do not actually bear the load -- they simply clamp the strips to the wall. The strength of a bracket shelving system actually depends more on the fasteners' holding power than it does on their size.

Use plastic anchors for light-duty installations only. Wood screws driven directly into studs hold much better, however, you must adjust the spacing to the wall framing. Hollow-wall fasteners, such as expansion and toggle bolts let you put the strips exactly where you want and have good holding power.

Equipped with the proper fasteners and a power screwdriver, drill, and level, you can hang the strips quickly. It is best to plumb the strips so they will be perfectly vertical. But if your walls are out of square, you may have to measure from floor to ceiling to make the spacing aesthetically acceptable.

Step

Position the intermediate strips at equal distances; the number depends on span length and weight load.

Helpful Hints. Plot the shelf spacings carefully, using graph paper and the dimensions to minimize surprises later. You can save space and cut down on dusting by tailoring vertical spacings to accommodate your possessions exactly. Leave an extra inch or two so you can tip out a book or compact disk. Allow more leeway if you decide on fixed shelves.

Before determining your final shelving layout, consult the shelving strips' instructions to determine the spacing required between shelves for several often-shelved items.