How To Prepare Exterior Surfaces For Paint

Today's paints last from 4-10 years, depending on the exposure (sunny exposures fade more quickly), the color (darker colors fade faster), and the surface preparation.

Do not paint a house too often; the thick layers of paint will peel away.  Most paint wears slowly, through a process called chalking.  In many cases removing the chalk by scrubbing will renew a dull painted surface.
Your house needs a new coat of paint when the existing paint has almost worn off, or if it is peeling, blistering, cracking, or alligatoring.  Start by removing as much old paint as possible with a paint scrapper, wire brush, or power sander.  Always wear a respirator -- old paint often contains lead.

Wash the surfaces with a solution of trisodium phoshate (TSP) and water or any strong household cleanser.  Concentrate on soffits, porch ceilings, and areas under the eaves.  Rinse the surfaces with a hose.  A rented pressure power washer can speed paint removal.

If the original paint showed signs of peeling, especially on attic walls or un-insulated walls, eliminate the cause of the problem: moisture that seeps through the wall.  The solution: Provide vents in the attic or install 3/4-inch vent holes drilled near the top of the stud cavities.  Also consider coating the affected walls with special primers specified as vapor barriers.

Set protruding nail heads and caulk all cracks, seams, and joints.  Sand down high spots as well as shiny surfaces that need tooth (a rough surface to which surfaces will adhere).  You are now ready to apply primer.
To prepare masonry, scrub the walls with a wire brush and strong detergent.  As moisture evaporates from masonry over time, the remaining deposits turn into a crystaline powder known as efflorescence.  To remove powdery efflorescent salts, scrub masonry with a mixture of one-part muriatic acid and 3 parts water.

Never add water to acid; always pour the acid into water.  If the wall is too slick for paint to adhere, scrub again with a stronger acid solution.  If the wall is too porous, prime the surface with a block filler.

Preparing windows.  Scrape all loose paint with a putty knife or paint scraper.  Remove loose putty around the glass, and replace it with a new glazing compound.  Paint the exposed wood with linseed oil or primer.
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If layers of old paint have sealed the window, cut through the paint with a putty knife or special scoring tool so the window moves freely.  Look for damaged or rotten wood.  Many window frames are made of pine, which rots easily.  If the damage is extensive, replace the window.  If the damaged area is small, dig out the bad wood and patch with epoxy filler, smoothing it while it is pliable.  Patch and sand all holes.  Spot prime patches and bare wood.
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