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Installing A New Bathtub Step By Step
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What Next?
Hopefully you've successfully removed the old tub that was in the space and now its time to install a beautiful new one.
There are certain steps that are usually done in chronological order to make the project go smoother. Be sure to have the correct tools on hand and follow the manufacturer's installation instructions.
If you are an avid DIYer, you can complete this project yourself in a day or so.
There are certain steps that are usually done in chronological order to make the project go smoother. Be sure to have the correct tools on hand and follow the manufacturer's installation instructions.
If you are an avid DIYer, you can complete this project yourself in a day or so.
Installing A New Tub
1. Positioning A New Tub. Fit the new tub exactly against the studs. If the space is too long, frame in a short wall to use as a shelf. Rough-in the drain and faucet plumbing. Most new tubs have only two holes: the drain and the overflow. Some luxury tubs have one or two faucet mounts on the rim of the tub.
The water supply pipes must be installed and connected before putting the tub in place. A typical assembly is 1/2-inch cold water and 1/2-inch hot water supply pipes connecting to a mixer valve (faucet). A short 1/2-inch pipe runs down from a valve and terminates in an elbow with a short stub, to which the spot is connected later.
Another 1/2-inch pipe runs from the valve and connects to an elbow with a short stub, to which the shower-head is connected later. When buying a faucet, specify whether the connection will be soldered copper (CU) or threaded fittings (IP).
2. Installing an Access Panel. Most local codes require that bathtub plumbing be accessible. When the tub is on the ground floor, this access can be from the basement or crawl space below. Just cut a hole in the floor, approximately 8 by 12 inches, under the head of the tub.
If the tub is steel or plastic, you will have to nail either 2 by 4 or 1 by 6 cleats to the studs to rest the flange on. Be sure these boards are exactly the right height and are level.
If the tub is steel or plastic, you will have to nail either 2 by 4 or 1 by 6 cleats to the studs to rest the flange on. Be sure these boards are exactly the right height and are level.
The instruction sheet provided with the tub will provide proper dimensions. Before setting the tub into place, make sure there is plenty of room to work on the drain from below the floor or through the access door. Even on an upstairs floor it is a good idea to remove some of the subfloor adjacent to the access opening.
It is customary to wait until the tub is in place before finishing the bathroom floor, but if you are installing vinyl sheet flooring you may want to wait until it has been laid before positioning the tub. If the tub is installed first, the flooring has to be butted up against the tub. Unless this joint is caulked and sealed very thoroughly, moisture will lift the flooring and may cause structural damage in time. Installing the tub after flooring prevents this problem.
3. Positioning the Tub. First stuff insulating materials into hollow cavities around the tub (this will help to keep the bath water warm). Then slide the tub in place against the studs. Rest the flange on the cleats and screw it to the studs.
4. Installing the Drain. The rough plumbing for the drain should be a 1 1/2-inch diameter trap below floor level with the inlet centered directly beneath the drain. It should have a slip nut or other means to connect to the waste-and-overflow pipe coming from the tub.
The tub itself does not come with any pipes, so you have to get a tub drain assembly, which consists of the drain arm, overflow pipe, and connecting tee. Assemble this unit according to the manufacturer's directions and place it into position. You will need a helper to hold it. Then, working from the inside of the tub, put lots of plumber's putty around the drain hole and screw in the strainer fitting.
Tighten it by inserting the plastic coated handles of a pair of pliers or a special wrench for this purpose. Do not over tighten; just make it snug. Install the overflow cover with the screws that came with it. Then, working under the tub, connect the overflow assembly to the trap by tightening the compression nut with a spud wrench or spanner. Test the drain with a few buckets of water. Then install the stopper mechanism.
5. Finishing the Enclosure. Finish the walls around the tub with moisture-resistant wallboard or other backing and whatever final finishing material you choose. Replace the stub-outs for the spout and shower head with proper nipples of the right length. Then screw on the fixtures.
6. Caulking. After the tile or other wall material and doors or curtain rod are installed, the final step in installing a tub is to caulk all the joints. To make a neat joint between the tub and tile, put tape along the edge of the tub. Then apply caulk, finger it smooth, and pull up the tape to reveal a straight, clean line.
It is customary to wait until the tub is in place before finishing the bathroom floor, but if you are installing vinyl sheet flooring you may want to wait until it has been laid before positioning the tub. If the tub is installed first, the flooring has to be butted up against the tub. Unless this joint is caulked and sealed very thoroughly, moisture will lift the flooring and may cause structural damage in time. Installing the tub after flooring prevents this problem.
3. Positioning the Tub. First stuff insulating materials into hollow cavities around the tub (this will help to keep the bath water warm). Then slide the tub in place against the studs. Rest the flange on the cleats and screw it to the studs.
4. Installing the Drain. The rough plumbing for the drain should be a 1 1/2-inch diameter trap below floor level with the inlet centered directly beneath the drain. It should have a slip nut or other means to connect to the waste-and-overflow pipe coming from the tub.
The tub itself does not come with any pipes, so you have to get a tub drain assembly, which consists of the drain arm, overflow pipe, and connecting tee. Assemble this unit according to the manufacturer's directions and place it into position. You will need a helper to hold it. Then, working from the inside of the tub, put lots of plumber's putty around the drain hole and screw in the strainer fitting.
Tighten it by inserting the plastic coated handles of a pair of pliers or a special wrench for this purpose. Do not over tighten; just make it snug. Install the overflow cover with the screws that came with it. Then, working under the tub, connect the overflow assembly to the trap by tightening the compression nut with a spud wrench or spanner. Test the drain with a few buckets of water. Then install the stopper mechanism.
5. Finishing the Enclosure. Finish the walls around the tub with moisture-resistant wallboard or other backing and whatever final finishing material you choose. Replace the stub-outs for the spout and shower head with proper nipples of the right length. Then screw on the fixtures.
6. Caulking. After the tile or other wall material and doors or curtain rod are installed, the final step in installing a tub is to caulk all the joints. To make a neat joint between the tub and tile, put tape along the edge of the tub. Then apply caulk, finger it smooth, and pull up the tape to reveal a straight, clean line.
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