Types of sinks. Self rimming. This
type of sink is easy to install. First,
lay a bead of caulk around the opening.
Set the sink into it and install clamps
underneath every 4 or 5 inches. Wait
for the caulk to set, then score around
the edge of the sink with a knife to
remove any caulk that oozed out from
under the rim. Surface mounted. A
surface mounted comes with a separate
stainless steel mounting rim. Lay a
bead of bathtub caulk or similar sealant
around the cutout opening. Set the
sink into the opening, support it
temporarily, and insert the rim around it.
Install clips every 4 to 6 inches around
the sink from underneath. Use a
screwdriver to tighten the clips against
the sink.
Recessed. Single wall stainless steel sinks expand and contract more quickly than surrounding tile. As a result, a good seal around the edge is difficult to maintain. Because of this problem, a knowledgeable contractor does not usually recommend a single wall sink for installation. A recessed installation is similar to the installation of a self-rimming sink without the clips.
Installing a sink. 1. Marking for the cut-out. Almost all kitchen sinks are installed in countertops, some after the countertop is installed and others in a plywood deck ready for tile or some other covering. Place the sink upside down on the countertop or plywood deck and set it to position. Be sure to center it over the sink cabinet so the bowl edges will clear the sides of the cabinet. Leave at least 1 1/2 inches at the front edge. Leave more space if your counter is wider than 24 inches, as is the case if your sink lies in an island or peninsula.Place it back no farther back than 3 to 4 inches. Pencil a line around the edge of the sink and lift it off. Then draw a second line 1/2 inch inside the first outline.
2. Cutting the opening. Drill a hole at each corner of the inside line. Each hole should be large enough to accommodate the blade of a saber saw or jigsaw. Saw between the holes along the inner line, supporting the cutout towards the end so the weight does not crack the countertop as you free it. The edges do not have to be straight or smooth - the rim of the sink will cover them. Before you install the sink, attach strainer assembely, faucet, and all accessories. Attachment is easier if you set the sink on a pair of sawhorses.
3. Hooking up the faucet. Connect the faucet to each angle stop with a length of supply tubing. Tighten all the nuts with flat wrenches.
type of sink is easy to install. First,
lay a bead of caulk around the opening.
Set the sink into it and install clamps
underneath every 4 or 5 inches. Wait
for the caulk to set, then score around
the edge of the sink with a knife to
remove any caulk that oozed out from
under the rim. Surface mounted. A
surface mounted comes with a separate
stainless steel mounting rim. Lay a
bead of bathtub caulk or similar sealant
around the cutout opening. Set the
sink into the opening, support it
temporarily, and insert the rim around it.
Install clips every 4 to 6 inches around
the sink from underneath. Use a
screwdriver to tighten the clips against
the sink.
Recessed. Single wall stainless steel sinks expand and contract more quickly than surrounding tile. As a result, a good seal around the edge is difficult to maintain. Because of this problem, a knowledgeable contractor does not usually recommend a single wall sink for installation. A recessed installation is similar to the installation of a self-rimming sink without the clips.
Installing a sink. 1. Marking for the cut-out. Almost all kitchen sinks are installed in countertops, some after the countertop is installed and others in a plywood deck ready for tile or some other covering. Place the sink upside down on the countertop or plywood deck and set it to position. Be sure to center it over the sink cabinet so the bowl edges will clear the sides of the cabinet. Leave at least 1 1/2 inches at the front edge. Leave more space if your counter is wider than 24 inches, as is the case if your sink lies in an island or peninsula.Place it back no farther back than 3 to 4 inches. Pencil a line around the edge of the sink and lift it off. Then draw a second line 1/2 inch inside the first outline.
2. Cutting the opening. Drill a hole at each corner of the inside line. Each hole should be large enough to accommodate the blade of a saber saw or jigsaw. Saw between the holes along the inner line, supporting the cutout towards the end so the weight does not crack the countertop as you free it. The edges do not have to be straight or smooth - the rim of the sink will cover them. Before you install the sink, attach strainer assembely, faucet, and all accessories. Attachment is easier if you set the sink on a pair of sawhorses.
3. Hooking up the faucet. Connect the faucet to each angle stop with a length of supply tubing. Tighten all the nuts with flat wrenches.
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4. Hooking up the drain. Apply plumber's putty around the drain opening, install the strainer bowl, and tighten the locknut.
Hook up the P-trap assembly, connecting it to the drain stub-out with a slip nut and to the strainer tailpiece with another slip nut. Tighten the nuts by hand.
Hook up the P-trap assembly, connecting it to the drain stub-out with a slip nut and to the strainer tailpiece with another slip nut. Tighten the nuts by hand.
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