For strength and rigidity, select a Type-I or Type-II class ladder. The ladder should be long enough to extend 3 feet above the highest eaves of your house. Add another 1 foot to this distance to make up for the propping angle. Remember, too, that the extended height of a ladder will be about 3 feet less than the total of it's sections.

"Walk" the ladder up, hand over hand, keeping your arms straight. It will seem to get lighter as it rises. To extend the ladder, brace a rail with your foot, lift from the house, and pull the rope. Make sure both locks catch. Position the ladder so that the distance from the base to the wall is about one-fourth of it's extended length.

Place both feet on firm ground. Don't try to shim with bricks or boards; instead, extend an uneven leg with a 1x4, using 2 jaw clamps secured to the ladder's legs. Use two hands when climbing. Instead of loading yourself with tools, put them in a bucket and hoist them with a rope.

When working on the ladder, keep your hips between the rails and don't overreach; erect ladders aren't difficult to move. A brace improves a ladder's stability, protects siding, spans obstacles, and keeps the ladder away from the house.

For roof work, hook a stabilizer over the ridge. Or, secure the ladder with ropes tied to a tree on the other side.

When setting up a ladder, please follow these precautions:
-    If you have never scaled an extension ladder, ask someone to steady it from below when you make your first few climbs. You will soon gain confidence.
-    Watch out for power lines: Metal, and even wet, wooden ladders can conduct electricity.
-    Never allow more than one person on a ladder at a time.
-    Don't use ladders on windy days.
-    Never paint a wooden ladder. You could be hiding future defects.
-    Store ladders indoors, away from moisture and "second-story" burglars.

To set up a ladder. Place the ladder's feet firmly against the foundation. Do not extend it now; wait until it's vertical.