© 2009 by DIY In A Hour.com. All rights reserved. We welcome your comments and suggestions. Information provided "AS IS". You may freely link to this site, and use it for non-commercial use, subject to our terms and conditions of use. Please view our privacy policy.
Was this post
helpful to you?
helpful to you?
What Does It Cost?
Sooner or later, all water heaters succumb to rust and corrosion and need replacement. There's nothing difficult about hooking up a water heater. You usually can find a replacement with about the same dimensions as the old one. This spares you the trouble of re-tailoring plumbing lines.
Also, unless there are special considerations, you'll want to stick with the same kind of water heater you have now, either gas or electric. But you may want to upgrade the size of the unit if you find your hot water demands are increasing.
Before rushing out to get a new heater, make sure it's really the tank that's leaking-not the overflow or a poor connection.
If you do need a new unit, have a helper on hand when it arrives. Traversing stairs with a tank that can weigh 125 to 200 pounds can be tricky. An appliance dolly makes the job a lot easier too.
Set-up your new water heater next to the old one, study the installation instructions, and determine if you need new plumbing or flue fittings. Some plumbers don't bother to install union connections or shutoff valves. If that was the case when your heater was installed, you'll have to cut the hot and cold water lines to remove the water heater. To save trouble in case anything goes wrong in the future, invest in a couple of unions and a shutoff valve, too. You'll also need a hacksaw, pipe wrench or large adjustable wrench, screwdriver, level, and a brush.
Turn off the water near the heater or at the main. You must do this before starting any other work. Shut off electricity at the service panel or gas by closing the shutoff valve that leads to the water heater. After turning off the water, drain the tank. With a bucket this could take several hours, so connect a hose from the drain valve to a floor drain.
Disconnect hot and cold water lines and gas or electrical lines. Slide the old unit out of the way. Don't make any of the connections on the new heater until it's level. You can level it with cedar or other rot resistant shims. Reconnect the hot and cold water lines (with unions or flexible tubing), the pressure relief valve, and the gas or electrical lines.
On gas models, install the draft diverter, position over the flue baffle, and connect the flue pipe. Use parts included with the new heater kit. After opening the main gas shutoff, check for leaks by swabbing a union joint with a solution of soapy water. Watch for air bubbles indicating a leak. Open cold water shutoff to fill the tank. Open a hot water faucet in the kitchen. After water flows into the sink, light the gas pilot or turn on the electricity. Set the thermostat at about 125 degrees F. Lowering the setting by a few degrees will save some energy. Extend a water heater's life by draining off 2 to 3 gallons of water from it every two months during the first year; every six months thereafter.
Also, unless there are special considerations, you'll want to stick with the same kind of water heater you have now, either gas or electric. But you may want to upgrade the size of the unit if you find your hot water demands are increasing.
Before rushing out to get a new heater, make sure it's really the tank that's leaking-not the overflow or a poor connection.
If you do need a new unit, have a helper on hand when it arrives. Traversing stairs with a tank that can weigh 125 to 200 pounds can be tricky. An appliance dolly makes the job a lot easier too.
Set-up your new water heater next to the old one, study the installation instructions, and determine if you need new plumbing or flue fittings. Some plumbers don't bother to install union connections or shutoff valves. If that was the case when your heater was installed, you'll have to cut the hot and cold water lines to remove the water heater. To save trouble in case anything goes wrong in the future, invest in a couple of unions and a shutoff valve, too. You'll also need a hacksaw, pipe wrench or large adjustable wrench, screwdriver, level, and a brush.
Turn off the water near the heater or at the main. You must do this before starting any other work. Shut off electricity at the service panel or gas by closing the shutoff valve that leads to the water heater. After turning off the water, drain the tank. With a bucket this could take several hours, so connect a hose from the drain valve to a floor drain.
Disconnect hot and cold water lines and gas or electrical lines. Slide the old unit out of the way. Don't make any of the connections on the new heater until it's level. You can level it with cedar or other rot resistant shims. Reconnect the hot and cold water lines (with unions or flexible tubing), the pressure relief valve, and the gas or electrical lines.
On gas models, install the draft diverter, position over the flue baffle, and connect the flue pipe. Use parts included with the new heater kit. After opening the main gas shutoff, check for leaks by swabbing a union joint with a solution of soapy water. Watch for air bubbles indicating a leak. Open cold water shutoff to fill the tank. Open a hot water faucet in the kitchen. After water flows into the sink, light the gas pilot or turn on the electricity. Set the thermostat at about 125 degrees F. Lowering the setting by a few degrees will save some energy. Extend a water heater's life by draining off 2 to 3 gallons of water from it every two months during the first year; every six months thereafter.
Installing A Water Heater
.jpg)
Find How-to Articles, Projects, and Expert Advice.
In A Hour.com
related video: install a water heater thermocouple
How to replace a thermocouple in a water heater.
