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Repairing double hung windows. When a window binds or refuses to budge, don't try to force it. Instead take a look at the sash, both inside and out. Chances are, you will find that paint has sealed the window shut or that a stop molding has warped. Both respond to prying techniques to
these areas. With double hung windows, the
culprit could be a faulty spring lift or a broken
or jammed sash cord. Replacing this involves
dismantling the window (describe later in the
article).
Freeing a painted sash. To break a paint seal,
run a sharp utility knife several times between
the sash and stop. As an alternative, pry the
bottom sash from the outer edges with a pry bar
and protective block. Work inward from the edges
until the sash pops free. If a sash is binding
between it's stops, try separating the stops
slightly by tapping along their length with a
hammer and a wooden block. Once you get the
window moving, lightly sand it's jambs, then
lubricate with paste wax, paraffin wax or a
candle, or bar soap.
Dismantling a double hung window to replace a sash cord. Using a putty knife, pry carefully at several areas of the inside stop to remove the sash. Procedure: 1. Lift the sash up, 2. Swing the bottom part out and clear the frame. The cords will still be connected. Hang on to the cord when you unhook it (or else it will shoot up into the wall!), then slip a nail through the knot. If there is no access cover at the base of the jamb to get to the weight, you may have to pry off the jamb. Feeding new sash cords over pulleys can be tricky, so bend them first. Replace the cords on both sides.
Tie weights to the cords and return to windows. Knot the other ends and fit cords into grooves in the sashes. Weights should hang 3 inches above the channel bottoms when the lower sash is raised fully. To replace the cords on an upper sash, you have to remove the lower one, then one of the parting stops. When you replace stops, partially drive in longer nails, then raise and lower the sash to check positioning.
these areas. With double hung windows, the
culprit could be a faulty spring lift or a broken
or jammed sash cord. Replacing this involves
dismantling the window (describe later in the
article).
Freeing a painted sash. To break a paint seal,
run a sharp utility knife several times between
the sash and stop. As an alternative, pry the
bottom sash from the outer edges with a pry bar
and protective block. Work inward from the edges
until the sash pops free. If a sash is binding
between it's stops, try separating the stops
slightly by tapping along their length with a
hammer and a wooden block. Once you get the
window moving, lightly sand it's jambs, then
lubricate with paste wax, paraffin wax or a
candle, or bar soap.
Dismantling a double hung window to replace a sash cord. Using a putty knife, pry carefully at several areas of the inside stop to remove the sash. Procedure: 1. Lift the sash up, 2. Swing the bottom part out and clear the frame. The cords will still be connected. Hang on to the cord when you unhook it (or else it will shoot up into the wall!), then slip a nail through the knot. If there is no access cover at the base of the jamb to get to the weight, you may have to pry off the jamb. Feeding new sash cords over pulleys can be tricky, so bend them first. Replace the cords on both sides.
Tie weights to the cords and return to windows. Knot the other ends and fit cords into grooves in the sashes. Weights should hang 3 inches above the channel bottoms when the lower sash is raised fully. To replace the cords on an upper sash, you have to remove the lower one, then one of the parting stops. When you replace stops, partially drive in longer nails, then raise and lower the sash to check positioning.
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